A briefing of the first three months (Pre-Med)

3/12/08
It is beautiful. I want to be outside all the time (except that I get so exhausted and must take naps frequently). Because I happened to arrive around the same time as the Belizians we've been hanging out a lot! Tonight they let me be an honorary Belizian in their dance for the Gala (a kind of cultural talent show) – in case you don't know, Belizians speak a kind of Creole English that sounds a bit like they're from Jamaica (all the english speakers live together, 'cause THAT makes sense for learning Spanish... SIGH). The American girls seem nice – though sometimes it's hard to feel a sense of community... funny how people can be less understanding of those in their own culture.

You really do need a regular bucket with a top because this is how we bathe! And it's got to be covered because standing water is bad. But I'm hoping to pick one up this weekend [we also have shower faucets that sometimes work, it's just cold water – but it's been really ho out so my cold shower felt pretty good tonight].

3/18/08
This week I started classes! As it turns out (I think, because one is never sure exactly how things happen around here -- more on the disorganized way of life here later...) I passed out of Spanish… meaning I did well enough on the written diagnostic to where they decided to place me in premedical studies with all the other Hispanic students… so I'm taking biology, chemistry, math, history of medicine, and a couple others IN CUBAN SPANISH, which, did I forget to mention? is ridiculous. They speak REALLY fast and use weird words. If you want to know what it sounds like, tune into Casos de Familia on univision -- the host is mexican but almost all the guests are Cuban! (the show takes place in Miami).

There's been power tripping with a FEW of the American girls (in those moments I seriously think about moving to a Spanish-speaking dorm) but then there are other times that I love it here because the environment is so interesting and diverse, and we have so much to talk and laugh about! I try my best to just yield to whatever power trip someone's having and be wary of them in the future. I just keep telling myself it's really not that important to be the boss. (my theory is that the lack of space -- we are twenty to a room -- tends to bring out the worst)...

I'm planning on going to Habana Vieja this Saturday for fruit, vegetables, a mirror… doing laundry by hand is surprisingly self-fulfilling. I love hanging my clothes on the line to dry… we'll see how long that lasts. That and the cold showers – still loving them at this point. I broke down and ate a little cookie packet today… so… much… Cuban… sugar… I can feel the diabetes…. And I'm addicted to the strange sweet milk they serve for breakfast – especially when mixed with the little shots of coffee. I seriously crave it every night and can't wait for morning…

I've totally befriended the maintenance guys outside our building – one of them has got to be over seventy. He's SO skinny and has this totally creased, weathered face, which is always shaded by a very worn, haggard old hat. He's so sweet – brought me bananas from his yard, found clothespins for me when I told him I couldn't find any. I adore him… for the most part. I'm still pretty wary of Cuban men.

3/23/08
Other than the continuous green snot from my cold and slowly adjusting to afternoon classes held in lightning speed Spanish, life has been glorious here. I got a 5 on the biology diagnostic exam so I can exonerate if I want… and my Spanish has been coming back slowly but surely, I can already notice an improvement from when I first got here. Yesterday was the Mexican Gala, it was so good! So every Thursday and Friday a different country presents dances and skits that are native to their region… usually they are fun but pretty amateur. Mexico's was fantastic, a real mariachi band and everything… it was especially cool because I recognized all the pieces from having spent so much time there. And then I went out and danced my pants off, sloshing a half-empty bottle of rum to the polk-like banda music that I have come to love so much. Classy. All of the after-gala-parties are held in Baracoa, a really small town about 5 minutes from the base. The night life consists of midnight food carts and snacks out of houses that line the main street -- this street leads past some outside bars that overlook the beach. Not a place to avoid ELAM students, they all seem to be there.

Today we bussed into Havana Vieja, which is rustic and beautiful, except for the ridiculously swanky hotels for tourists (which thanks to my light complexion, I can go hang out/study in, pretend to be a tourist and use the amazing bathrooms with toilet paper and mirrors!)

3/31/08
As soon as I leave campus I realize how cooped up it feels to be here day in day out… it IS beautiful, but for the most part time is spent within the walls of the "base" so the color blue has started haunting my dreams… plus we're kind of in the boonies out here even though it's only a half hour out of Havana. I love Havana. It feels like "real life" there with fruit markets, movie theaters, stores, restaurants, etc. So far I've walked around the touristy and not so touristy parts of Old Havana. The difference between the two is of course, striking. And although (after living at the school) the touristy repainted and refinished plazas are like a breath of fresh air, I think I actually prefer the rustically stained and falling apart views that you find in most of Havana. I can't decide if I if I'm glad I'm so obviously foreign or not… the perks are seemingly endless in places like hotels where I can use the bathroom without getting kicked out, or in any of the restaurants that so desperately want business. But I get a lot of attention for it – not only from the gross men (who really think they're complimenting you, ugh) but also from some Cubans that are bitter about their lives. There is something so comforting in the simplicity of life here and yet I can understand how frustrating it must be not having the things you want. I'm thinking of ways to blend in a little more without looking too skanky (Cuban fashion is something else, let me tell you…). All I know is that I can't wait to live in the city when I finally start third year; it will truly be the prize for two years of such a grind out here.

4/08/08
I am STILL thinking about moving to a Spanish-speaking dorm but I am dragging my feet about it – I really want to improve my speaking ability (it is the most important goal of my time here right now) but I think I'm scared to leave the comforts of living with Americans! I am finally adjusting and coming to love my roommates (even the ones who were so sketchy in the beginning have come around to be really sweet after all). All the first years have their semester final today – I've been studying neuroanatomy with them out of boredom, I can't even tell you what my "premed" classes are like. I just have to keep focusing on the fact that I'm making progress with Spanish.

4/29/08
As far as what is similar to the US… There are stores here so you can buy stuff like at home – but there's no commercialism in the sense of advertisements and most stuff is government brand. There is always a presence of foreign commercialism though. Cubans who rig extra channels get Mexican t.v. which is full of ads! Everyone uses the public transportation – busses are always JAM packed. And everything generally functions depending on the mood of whomever is working at the moment (they don't get payed any differently). The people are pretty honest but there is an air of struggle/deprivation everywhere you look. Hence, you have to count your change and not let maquinas rip you off (those are the famous huge old cars that taxi people around). I haven't been hanging outwith the Belizians as much but we live in the same building so I still see them around. Belize is such an interesting country. The main cultures there are Mestizo (which is "Hispanic") Garifuna (African"coast" culture), and East Indian. So they are a big mix! Actually we just put together a soccer team US and Belize, it's fun even though we look like a disaster. The American gala is finally over – my afro-brazilian dance was a total success – I'll see if I can download the video and take it home! The fresh fruit here at the school is a negative – if I want it I have to make it out to a market on the weekend (sometimes I do that) but otherwise I survive on bread and beans during the week, I can't believe I haven't gained more weight.

5/12/08
Soooo… the reason why I've lost weight (10 lbs!) I've discovered, is because I have Giardia. My stomach has been ailing me for the past month and they have finally diagnosed me. I took the one dose of Secnidazol (4 tablets at once), which you can't find in the U.S. (I don't want to know why…my guess is that it's really bad for your liver) but it hasn't worked. I'll try the doctor's office tomorrow morning for another dose. There's also this natural remedy that I've been searching for all over Havana and the surrounding pueblos but no one seems to have it at the moment (Tintura de Propoleo, a bee product).

Life has been somewhat challenging here due to all the little things that seem to eat away... like not having any private space or being able to eat well (the parasite draining color from my cheeks doesn't help), being a little dirtier than I'm used to, the culture centered around men, to name a few!! But it is all about focusing on the positive. Today I had a really good day going over organic chemistry in Spanish, it was very self-fulfilling. And I have to laugh – yesterday I had the worst day, I went into Havana to look for plane tickets and after all that I decided to go to Copelia's (a really famous cheap sit down ice cream joint) by myself... so I went up and while I tried to place myself with a group of younger students the waitress made me move to a table with 3 super UN-friendly gangster Cubans who just stared me down the whole time we were waiting for ice cream. Everyone around us was laughing, (copelias is one of the most care free places in havana, everyone lights up when their big bowls of ice cream arrive), and I on the other hand, was self-consciously tapping a pen I took out, every once in a while looking up to see if anyone was interested in persuing the "Buenas" I threw out there. They werent. I had a good laugh at myself when I got back to the dorm.

Believe me when I say that everyone at home is in my thoughts here (usually as my gaze turns away from the chalkboard and out the window, upon the windswept palms that line the bluest of shores!)